Exploring Northern Ireland's dramatic coastline, I stepped into the stormy winter grey and felt invigorated by the icy dip in the sea. The water may have felt surprisingly warm, but it was the freezing wind that did its job: every nerve was singing, and I felt euphoric. This trip to the Antrim coast is an excellent way to experience a sustainable break – even on the stormy depths of winter.
My journey began at Ballygally Castle, where I enjoyed a Sea Dips and Hot Sips package that included dry robes, hot-water bottles, and flasks. The 400-year-old castle, which celebrates its birthday this year, is Northern Ireland's only 17th-century hotel. The affordable castle offers an excellent base for exploring the stunning coastline.
A scenic hike took me up Windswept Sallagh Braes, a huge basalt amphitheatre crowned with rare mosses, where views stretch north over Antrim's wooded glens and east across the sea to Scotland. The dramatic cliffs have appeared in Game of Thrones and The Northman. Standing stones, crumbling sheepfolds, and bronze-age barrows dotted the landscape.
Next, I visited Glenarm Castle, an ancestral seat of the earls of Antrim, home to the 15th earl and his family. Their butler, George Lynn, runs perfectly pitched book-ahead tours of the castle. Exploring Glenarm village revealed a red sandstone arch with an arrow marked Forest.
From Ballycarry station, I took the train to Portrush and walked on the exhilarating Gobbins cliff path. The newly upgraded circular route was due to reopen in 2026. A rainbow arced over the fields as the Derry railway headed for the north coast.
In Portrush, I stayed at the Portrush Adelphi hotel, which finished a fancy refurb last year. Rooms come with hexagonal juniper-laden gin miniatures from the Basalt distillery. Strolling around town, having homemade soup and sea views at Babushka, and hopping on a bus to Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge provided more stunning views of clifftop castles and long sandy beaches.
Next, I walked five miles of coast path to neighbouring Portstewart, catching a late lilac sunrise over Portrush harbour. Flocks of coral-legged turnstones swirled and scampered; huge gannets plunged into the foaming white waves at 60mph.
On my final day, I visited Louise McLean's whitewashed cottage in Portstewart. She has been making baskets for 25 years and grows 15 types of willow in her wildlife-rich garden. A sudden downpour thunders on the metal roof as we twisted brown willow strands in the cosy, candle-dotted room.
This trip to Northern Ireland was partly provided by Tourism Ireland with accommodation at Ballygally Castle, which offered doubles from £88 room-only and a Sea Dips package from £155. More information is available at ireland.com
My journey began at Ballygally Castle, where I enjoyed a Sea Dips and Hot Sips package that included dry robes, hot-water bottles, and flasks. The 400-year-old castle, which celebrates its birthday this year, is Northern Ireland's only 17th-century hotel. The affordable castle offers an excellent base for exploring the stunning coastline.
A scenic hike took me up Windswept Sallagh Braes, a huge basalt amphitheatre crowned with rare mosses, where views stretch north over Antrim's wooded glens and east across the sea to Scotland. The dramatic cliffs have appeared in Game of Thrones and The Northman. Standing stones, crumbling sheepfolds, and bronze-age barrows dotted the landscape.
Next, I visited Glenarm Castle, an ancestral seat of the earls of Antrim, home to the 15th earl and his family. Their butler, George Lynn, runs perfectly pitched book-ahead tours of the castle. Exploring Glenarm village revealed a red sandstone arch with an arrow marked Forest.
From Ballycarry station, I took the train to Portrush and walked on the exhilarating Gobbins cliff path. The newly upgraded circular route was due to reopen in 2026. A rainbow arced over the fields as the Derry railway headed for the north coast.
In Portrush, I stayed at the Portrush Adelphi hotel, which finished a fancy refurb last year. Rooms come with hexagonal juniper-laden gin miniatures from the Basalt distillery. Strolling around town, having homemade soup and sea views at Babushka, and hopping on a bus to Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge provided more stunning views of clifftop castles and long sandy beaches.
Next, I walked five miles of coast path to neighbouring Portstewart, catching a late lilac sunrise over Portrush harbour. Flocks of coral-legged turnstones swirled and scampered; huge gannets plunged into the foaming white waves at 60mph.
On my final day, I visited Louise McLean's whitewashed cottage in Portstewart. She has been making baskets for 25 years and grows 15 types of willow in her wildlife-rich garden. A sudden downpour thunders on the metal roof as we twisted brown willow strands in the cosy, candle-dotted room.
This trip to Northern Ireland was partly provided by Tourism Ireland with accommodation at Ballygally Castle, which offered doubles from £88 room-only and a Sea Dips package from £155. More information is available at ireland.com